LUCKNOW CITY TRAVEL Guide
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Lucknow is caught in a time warp. It
exists in an in-between land of the past and the present
looking back constantly to the memories of a colonial-Nawabi
past. There is at the same time a sense of pride at the
thought of being after Delhi, the most important center
of power in free India. Politics has indeed been
Lucknow's forte but culture has been its historical
identification.
Nawabi legacy: Despite the Indo-Persian legacy, Lucknow
has a composite Indian culture. The welding of various
cultural strains nurtured by centuries of Mughal and
later Delhi Sultanate rule, to the folk traditions of
the Indo-Gangetic plains has produced a complex, yet
rich synthesis. The Urdu language acquired its baffling
phonetic nuances and suave perfection here. It was in
Nawab Wajed Ali Shah's court that the most advanced of
all classical Indian dance forms, the Kathak, took
shape. The popular Parsi theatre originated from the
Urdu theatre of this city. The table and the sitar were
first heard on the streets of Lucknow.
Lucknow-the name can be traced to the epic Ramayana.
After 14 years of exile when Lord Ramchandra returned to
Ayodhya, he gifted this place to his younger brother
Lakshman. Lakshman is believed to have stayed in
Lakshman Teela, a high ground near the banks of the
river Gomti. Later the region was named after him; 'Lucknow'
is derived from the name Lakshman. There are other
stories that do the rounds: Lucknow was named after a
very influential person called 'Lakhan Ahir' who built
the fort 'Qila Lakhan'. The name 'Qila Lakhan' later
became Lucknow. Some other source says that one Lakhu
Khan who was earlier a non-Muslim by name Laxman Singh
has lent his name to Lucknow.
Old City:
The ravages of time have left its mark on Chowk, the
oldest street of Lucknow. But a walk through of the
streets is still a memorable experience because of the
series of unfolding scenes. The rhythm of hammers
beating silver into paper, the smell of flowers, the
fragrance of ittar, the fineness of chicken embroidery
and the mouthwatering aroma of roasting meat at a kabab
shop. Venturing beyond the streets into the bylines you
confront a private world of courtesans' houses with
their many stories and anecdotes, past and present.
The Raj Connection:
In the annals of Indian history, Lucknow forms the
traditional link between tradition and modernity, the
decline of the Mughals and the rise of the British. The
timing of its rise, however, cut short Lucknow's
cultural effluence. The land of etiquette and manners,
of the 'pehle alp' these received a serious jolt with
the siege of the British Residency during the great
revolt in 1857. Eager for revenge, the last Nawab Wajid
Ali Shah, proved a suitable scapegoat. Awadh was annexed
on the pretext of administrative failure and the Nawab
was packed off to Calcutta with a pension. |